How to Cut Bed Molding and Crown Molding
I left off my last post on adding trim to my windows saying I’d be back with a more detailed post on cutting bed molding (or crown molding) for the top of my new window trim.
I got so wrapped up in figuring out and installing my bed molding that I did not take any real-time pictures of the process. But, ever-striving to be a woman of my word, I recreated some pictures of how to cut bed molding for outside corners. It’s really easy if you take your time and turn it upside down!
Set Molding Upside Down
To start, determine what is the “top” of your molding. For the bed molding I used, the bump out was the top and bump in, if you will, was the bottom.
Ok, any time you make a cut, always make sure the top is down and the bottom is up. Always.
Start by creating an angle at one end. You’ll want to turn your miter saw all the way to the 45° on the left or right. You can see I started on the left.
Keep Molding On Angle
But this is the trick, to hold the molding up against the saw fence as if the bottom surface of the saw was the wall and the fence was the ceiling. Basically, make sure the 2 turned edges of the molding are flush against the bottom and fence of the saw, and also that the molding is upside down.
Then carefully hold your molding tight against the fence in that position while you let ‘er rip. Once the cut is complete you’ll be able to see the slight bevel you made!
Measure From The Bottom
Now to me the next part is the trickiest—measuring and cutting to size. You’ll want to measure and mark using the bottom edge, starting from the shortest corner of your new angle. My thumb is trying to illustrate the start point below.
Since I was cutting the bed molding to install on a 1×6 as part of my window trim, I measured the face of the 1×6 from end to end to get the length I needed from the bed molding.
Cut The Opposite End
Before you make the next cut, adjust your saw to the opposite 45°. If your first cut was with the 45 marker on the left, rotate to the right and vice versa.
Your pencil mark should be at the top if you have the molding lined up correctly. Match it up where the back of the saw blade will hit your mark and go out from there, so that the mark is the shorter point of your cut. Hold the molding tight against the fence on the angle, the same as the first cut.
Create End Caps
To wrap the molding around the 1×6 (to use my window trim header as an example) you’ll want to use the same technique to cut a small end cap. Cut an angle to match up with each end. And then cut a straight edge on the opposite side at the right length. My end pieces were 3/4 inches wide at the bottom.
Then you can glue the end cap to the main strip of molding before attaching to the wall and window trim.
Attach to Wall
To attach it to my window trim, I used a nail gun with 1 1/2 inch finish nails. Flush the angled part of the bottom of the bed molding against the wall before nailing in place. My finger is pointing out what part of the back gets nailed in place in the picture below.
I really hope this helps any one tackling outside corners of crown molding or bed molding or really any kind of molding! Once you figure it out, it’s so easy! Just remember always cut it upside down!
Caulk And Paint
I’m moving pretty slowly on finishing up this project, but I’m currently painting after caulking all of the joints and puttying the holes. I’ll follow up when it’s done with some more tips and beauty shots! I’ll leave you with a quick sneak peek of the trim with bed molding in place!
Here’s the link to the finished window trim and how the finishing touches make all the difference! As always, please comment below with any questions or comments! I read every one! And I love to hear what you’re up to around your casa.
Thanks for Checking In! ~Chelsea